Amadablam North-West Ridge Expedition in Nepal 2012 & 2013 in Autumn
Ama Dablam 6812m, normal route is easier than North West ridge. More steep climbing almost from ABC to TOP. You need fixed rope at 4500m. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe made a remarkable solo ascent of the wildly fluted South Face, emerging just beneath its vertical headwall on to the original route. That autumn a French expedition led by Louis Absorber also climbed the North Ridge.
It is fine route, harder than the South -West Ridge, with rock at the start, and an extravagantly corniced snow ridge near the top. While the French were on the North Ridge, disaster struck a New Zealand team attempting the West Face, when a huge section of the upper hanging glacier crashed down, killing Ken Hyslop and badly injuring peter Hillary and his other two companions. This face would appear to be very dangerous but it has since been climbed, solo by the well-known Czech climber Miri Smid in 1987.
Two routes were added in 1985. In November, Hooman Aprin and Randy Harrington (USA) with the Spaniard Martin Zabaleta climbed the South-East or (Left) Dwarfed by the immense ice cliffs of the Dablam, a lone climber abseils back to the top camp from the summit ice field. (Below) A typical situation on the South-West Ridge, near the base of the Yellow Tower , Behind is the famous silhouettes of Kantega (left) and Tramserku. ( Bill O'Connor) Lagunak Ridge, Again, this ridge was slightly harder than the original route with the main difficulties on snow mushrooms and fluting. Tucked away at the back of the mountain, normally seen only by people climbing on Island Peak or Lhotse , or from high on Everest, this secret face was a formidable and potentially dangerous challenge.
The danger was minimized by tackling the face in winter, with daytime temperatures well bellow freezing; the technical difficulties were subdued by the very experienced team of Carlos Buhler and Michael Kennedy. They followed the prominent curving ice rib up the centre of the face. The difficulties were predominantly on ice over rocks, waterfall ice and unconsolidated snow.
Route Detail: South Ridge.
First made to 4300m along from Chomrong village to top, Then rested 2days, started climb from Chomrong to base camp and At 6000m found ropes of Americans in 1988, middle section of Russian route was same as American route, at 3806m(took 2 days to reach ABC from Chomrong) and started to climb ABC and South Ridge 200m below small summit at 5000m(4941m on map of German pub) and next day lower at 4700m on a ridge with many up & down sections. Ridge almost all ice with some snow; rock only 2 pitches where found American rope. Most difficult section was between 6000m to 6500m on knife ridge sometimes hard ice and sometimes strong wind.
This climb technically not so difficult climb but harder work: greater difference in altitude from Chomrong. Difficult to find route amongst rock towers, small gullies, etc & difficult knife ridge. Had to carry 2 weeks provisions with very heavy loads. Until reached 6000m very clear but cold a should be Carried 4 ropes of 45m length for more permanently. At 7000m left descending rope with ice screw and others will find this Summit is great plateau.
Highest access of the trek
Minimum Group Size
: Everest, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, etc
: Spring & Autumn
: breakfast, lunch, & Dinner)
: 1-12 Pax
- Details Itinerary
- Price - Service Include & Exclude
- Useful Info
- Expedition Map
- Photo Gallery
Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu
Day 02: Kathmandu
Day 03: Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2840) and trek to Phakding (2610) - Camp or Lodge
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3440) - Camp or Lodge
Day 06: Namche - Thyanboche Monastery (3860) Lodge
Day 07: Thanboche – Dingboche (4410) camp or Lodge
Day 08: Dingboche – Ama Dablam North Ridge Base Camp (5200)
Day 09-25: Acclimatization/Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m.
Day 26: Ama Dablam SW Ridge - Namche Bazar
Day 27: Namche - Lukla - Lodge
Day 28: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 29: Kathmandu
Day 30: Final Departure
For latest price and information please contact our parent orgazation Nepal Trekking in Himalayas Pvt. Ltd.
Additional(up to 12 person)
10000.00 per person
The Cost: Permit join basis Everest South Face
Permit fee : USD 10000 Per person
Per Person : USD 7000 (Seven Thousand American dollars)
Climbing Per Sherpa : US$ 2600 (if required)
Note:- Special rates will be priveded for Tour Operater and Wholeseller.
- 4 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (hotel 3 star)
- Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu flight tickets with 60 KG cargo per member
- Per member get 2 porter for carry 60 KG from Lukla to Base camp - Lukla
- Fly ticket Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu
- Trekking from Lukla to Base camp & back to Lukla with Lodge trek lodge or camping
- Food for trekking & Expedition period in Everest Base camp
- Porter / Yak Lukla to Base Camp & back to Lukla (Porter transportation)
- 1 tent for 1 person for Expedition north face brand V-25 or Similar tent
- Dining tent, toilet tent, table and chares, Mattresses for expedition Sharing with other member
- Liaison officer's allowances equipment for Expedition, flight ticket, insurance, daily wages sharing with other group
- Expedition Crew’s allowances for Expedition, flight ticket, insurance, daily wages
- Peak permit for Everest South Face spring
- All transfer airport-hotel-airport
- Base camp Guide, Cook, Kitchen boy and Kitchen helper sharing with other member
- Emergency Oxygen - Mask and regulator (If use, pay it full cost)
- Satellite phone (Pay call)
- Gamo Bag (life saving device incase of altitude sickness) sharing with group member
- Solar panel for light and charges batteries
- company service charges
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
- High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas
- Expedition personal climbing gears
- Personal accident insurance
- Emergency evacuation, Helicopter rescue if required
- International airport departure tax
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods arriving into Nepal
- Bar bills & beverage
- Sherpa non summit bonus USD 1000
- Sherpa summit bonus USD 1000 + 500 climbing bonus
- Air cargo custom clearance duty fee USD 100 per person
- Personal Satellite phone with e-mail & internet permit
- Waki takies permit
- Extra expenses for personal
- Filming permit
- Oxygen and Mask regulator for member and Sherpa
- Ice fall fees
- Garbage Deposit USD 4000 (Sharing with other member)
- Down Jacket
- Finger Eight
- Fix Rope
- Gas Stove
- Head Light
- Higu Thermos
- Ice Axe
- Ice Crew
- Ice Hamber
- Main Rope
- One Sport
- Max Regulator
- Oxygen Slinder
- Safety Belt
- Slipping Bag
- Snow Bar
- Tape Sling
- Water Bottle
- Climbing Suit
- Waterproof Trouser
To join the Everest team you will need to have extensive mountaineering experience. This should include previous high altitude experience of at least 6,000 metres, mixed with a multitude of Alpine mountaineering and, preferably, you will have taken part in a previous 8,000-metre expedition.
We have found that those who have been to an 8,000-metre peak previously have a considerably better chance of getting to the top of Everest. We would strongly advise you to climb one of the other 8,000 metre peaks before going to Everest, as this is the best way of ensuring the money you spend on Everest will be rewarded by a successful ascent and a safe return home. Exceptionally, however, climbers who have not had the chance of climbing an 8,000 metre peak may consider Everest if they have a compensating depth of experience, that might include many alternative expeditions such as Huascaran, Illimani, Denali, or Muztag Ata. We do not consider an ascent of Aconcagua, by itself, to be suitable preparation for Everest and would not accept a booking on this basis.
Although fixed ropes will be used where appropriate, expedition members must have the ability to climb Alpine routes graded AD, or equivalent. All team members must be competent mountaineers and self-sufficient with the ability to move between and to live in high mountain camps un-aided or supervised.
In the extreme, we will be looking for some assurance that climbers would be able to survive being storm-bound in a tent at 8,000 metres for as long as 5 days, without significant detriment to their health and well-being such that at the end of such a storm, they return safely.
We are professionally-led teams of competent mountaineers who each have enough experience to climb the world's highest mountain, under the supervision and leadership of an accomplished and experienced high-altitude leader.
Our Everest expeditions are not "guided" because this is not a realistic proposition in the high-altitude realm of 8,000 metres and above. "Guiding" and being "guided" implies the intimate supervision and care of a "client" by a "Guide" who can be responsible for the direct and immediate control of safety, as is normally and traditionally practised in the Alps. On Everest, such a direct duty-of-care, implicit in the traditional guide-client relationship, is not possible. Instead, We accepts team members that, with a combination of their past experience, balanced with a strong team around them and highly experienced leaders, are empowered to reach the top of the world. This ensures you have the support that you need dependent on your own abilities. You can leverage your current experience and how you feel on the mountain, with the independence to move between camps and optimise your schedule on a day-by-day basis. And when you need additional support and advice, Leaders and Sherpas are there to assist and advise you on your ascent.
All of our leaders are trained in first-aid and have a good knowledge of high altitude medical problems. The expedition will be equipped with the following:
- A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
- Oxygen equipment for medical use only.
- A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
- Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation (see below).
We will also enrol all team members into the medical facility provided by the Himalayan Rescue Association. This has featured in the BBC documentary, "Everest ER". It is staffed by doctors (Usually Brits or Americans), and by enrolling all team members for a fee (paid by us), we ensure free access to the doctors for all of our Sherpas.
Our tour prices do not include insurance however it is a condition of joining our tours that travelers are fully insured for any medical expenses they might incur while traveling. At the start of your tour the Tour Leader will ask to see your insurance document and will note down the policy number and emergency contact number.
We recommended a comprehensive travel insurance policy that covers repatriation and evacuation in case of a medical emergency, cancellation and curtailment as well as baggage and valuables, If your tour involves certain adventurous activates (I.e. trekking, white water rafting or scuba diving etc) You will need to make sure your policy specifically covers these activates. You may also need specific cover for expensive camera equipment. Many credit card companies offer “complementary travel insurance” however the majority of such policies offer virtually no cover and will not be accepted as adequate travel insurance. If you are planning on using credit card insurance you must bring along proof that the policy covers medical emergencies. Failure to be able to provide such proof to the Tour Leader will result in you being compelled to purchase a new approved policy before you can join the tour.
It is your responsibility to ensure that you obtain any vaccinations, Precautionary or preventative Medicines for the countries you are visiting – or any which may be required by your home country upon your return. To find out which, if any, Vaccinations are mandatory or recommended for your destination Contact your local doctor, Immunization Centre or Medical Centre for up-to-date information. If you need to arrange vaccinations or a supply of preventative medicine (e.g. Malaria tablets), you should Contact your doctor at least two Months before you depart. Some Inoculations require more than one Visit and can take several weeks to Administer. CARRY YOUR CERTIFICATE
You should be issued with an International Certificate of Vaccination for each vaccination. Always carry these with you on your travels; they could provide essential information for doctors in the event that you fall ill whilst traveling.
Malaria is common in many parts of Africa, Asia and South America. Protection is in the form of tablets, taken either daily or weekly, or both. The course of tablets should normally begin 1-2 weeks before you depart, Continue throughout your travels and for 4 weeks after your return. Although you can obtain tablets from most pharmacies without prescription,
you must check that they are Appropriate for the area you are Visiting. There are many different Strains of malaria and a large number of them are drug-resistant. It may be Necessary for you to take a Combination of tablets for the region you are visiting.
No malaria tablets guarantee complete protection. The most Effective protection against malaria is to avoid being bitten. Mosquitoes Mostly bite at dusk and dawn so one of the best ways to minimize the Chance of being bitten is to wear long Trousers, long sleeves and socks at these times. You should take a good insect repellent and apply it liberally. Repellents with a high concentration of DEET (at least 35%) are generally considered the most effective.
Sampling the local food and drink is often one of the highlights of traveling. In most cases the food is Freshly prepared for you and is completely safe to eat, however it will probably contain ingredients that you are not familiar with or may be Prepared in a different way. This change in diet is one of the most common causes of travelers diarrhea. You can reduce the likelihood of suffering diarrhea if you treat food and drink with caution – at least in the early stages of your travels. In almost every country it is possible to buy bottled water. This is usually very cheap and a lot more convenient than trying to purify or filter tap water. Beware of ice in drinks and make sure you wash your hands frequenty.
In general we do not recommend the use of anti-diarrhea pills as in most Cases they do not cure the problem, they merely put it on hold. However, there are of course situations where ‘Blocking up’ may be desirable, for Instance if you are embarking on a long bus ride. Diarrhoea which lasts for longer than 48-72 hours, shows signs of blood or Mucus or which is concurrent with other symptoms, such as a headache or high temperature, should always be taken seriously. Seek medical advice
(your Tour Leader can assist you with this).
In deserts, in the tropics and at high Altitude, your body can lose a lot of water. Dehydration also occurs when you are suffering from diarrhoea. The best way to avoid dehydration is to drink plenty of fluids. In most countries you can obtain “rehydration salts” or “electrolyte Solution”. Although these do not taste great, they restore the salts lost by your body. You can also make your own rehydration mixture by adding 4 tablespoons of sugar and ½ teaspoon of salt to one liter of clean water.
Emergency & Rescue
Trekkers should be aware that there is very little in the way of rescue organization for handling trekker's emergencies in Nepal. If you are trekking with a reputable trekking agency then their staff will be trained to handle most contingencies. if you are traveling independently then you will have to rely on your own initiative to handle any problems. This is why trekking alone is foolhardy in the extreme.
At all times try to be aware of the location of possible sources of help, medical clinics, police or army posts etc. Try to find out where there are working telephones or radios as you pass along the trails.
At all times try to be aware of the location of possible sources of help, medical clinics, police or army posts etc. Try to find out where there are working telephones or radios as you pass along the trails. All trekkers should make sure that they are covered by a suitable travel insurance policy. This, at least, must cover the cost of a helicopter rescue, which is the only practical way of evacuating a seriously ill or injured patient from most of the trekking areas. It is essential to leave details of this policy with a responsible agency in Kathmandu. Either your trekking agency or your embassies are the obvious choices. Registering your details and intended plans with your embassy in Kathmandu is an extremely sensible step to take.
In the event that you do have a problem, and that problem cannot be solved with the resources at hand, then communications facilities must be located. Telephones or radios can be hard to find and may be a day or more away from the incident site. If it is possible to send a reliable person for help make sure that a note is sent detailing the location of the patient, the problem being experienced, specifying what help is needed. List what actions you are going to take in the interim. Fortunately, these days, helicopters are readily available, at a price, from Kathmandu and Pokhara. If a message can be sent then it is likely that a rescue can be mounted reasonably quickly.
Peak Climbing in Nepal
» Island peak Climbing 6189m
» Ama Dablam Peak Climbing
» Pisang peak Climbing 6091m.
» Mera peak Climbing. 6654m.
» Chulu west peak climbing. 6419m.
» Bokta Peak Climbing & Kanchenjunga
» Lobuche East peak climbing 6119m.
» Ramdung Go peak Climbing 5925m.
» labuche West peak climbing 6145m.
» Yala peak Climbing 6145m.
» Pachermo peak Climbing
» Tent peak Climbing
» Singu chuli peak Climbing
» Tilicho peak Climbing
» Pokalde peak Climbing
» Paldor peak Climbing
» Kongma tse Peak.
» Chekigo Peak Climbing.
» Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing.
» Kusum Kanguru Peak.
» Kwangde Peak Climbing.
» Mardi Himal Peak.
» Cholatse Peak Climbing.
» Langsisa Ri Peak.
» Pachharmo Peak.
» Naya Kanga Peak.
» Barunste Peak Climbing.
» Tilicho Peak Climbing.
» Tharpu Chuli Peak.
» Thapa Peak Climbing.
» Langtang Lirung Peak.
» Mt. Pumori Peak.
» Mt. Kantega Peak.
» Nuptse Peak Climbing.
» Hiunchuli Peak.
General Information» Climbing Fee
» Equipments checklists
» Nepal Peak Climbing Rules
Transports & Vehicle in Nepal
Nepal Trekking Pass
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